[GiraffeMSW]

Caring for your betta

So, you were wandering the fish aisles in your local fish store and you were sure you heard a little voice calling, "Take me home"? The closer you got to the betta display, the louder you heard the call, right? Congratulations--you've been bitten by the betta bug! Bettas are attractive, amusing, interactive little fish that can do well in a variety of conditions. Whether you want a desktop companion for the office or a beautiful addition to a peaceful community tank, the betta is the fish for you!

A bit of betta background:

The pretty, long finned fish in the cup at your LFS and the beautiful fancy finned ones we see in pictures bear little resemblance to a wild Betta splendens. A wild betta is a small, short finned fish with a relatively drab, greenish-brown body and a small amount of red on the fins of the males. Attractive in its own way, but far from the “wow” of our little tank-bred friends. The rainbow colors and fantastic fin types of the bettas we buy today are a result of selective breeding, and although their behavior is still much the same as a wild fish, ours would stand little chance of ever surviving in the wild; they are bred for their beauty.

There are several different betta tail types, including veiltail, crowntail, delta tail, half moon and double tail. Although the veiltail is no longer a type recognized by the International Betta Congress for show fish, it is probably the one most commonly encountered in stores, and particularly in chain stores. Females and crowntails are becoming more readily available, but chances are that if there's a betta in a cup on a store shelf, it's a male veiltail.

Housing your betta:

Betta splendens comes from the rice paddies and slow-moving rivers of Asia. Contrary to a popular myth, bettas do not live in puddles; rice paddies are large, interconnected fields with water that is often more than 10 inches deep. A betta can survive in a very small amount of poorly oxygenated water if he must, but that does not mean he should live that way all of the time. There are two options for housing your betta; either in an uncycled tank where you change all of the water before a test shows ammonia (typically the option chosen for smaller tanks), or in a cycled tank where you perform a partial change every week or two.

Uncycled tanks:
Bettas have a labyrinth organ that allows them to gulp atmospheric air from the surface and because of that ability, they can be kept in tanks without filtration or aeration. They do not require a large volume of water, but your betta should not be kept in less than one gallon, and the water must be changed regularly. How often you'll need to change water depends upon the water volume of the container; upon how much, how often and what the betta is fed and to a degree, upon the individual fish. You cannot tell the difference between water that is perfectly safe and water that contains dangerous levels of ammonia from fish waste and excretions by its appearance or even the smell; you will need an ammonia test kit to know when the water needs to be changed. How much ammonia is actually toxic depends upon the temperature and pH of the water, but even a small amount is stressful and your target should always be zero. You can figure out how often you'll need to change your betta's water by changing it, then testing daily until you see a trace of ammonia. If you see the trace of ammonia on the sixth day, change the water, and you'll know you need to do subsequent changes on the fifth day. If you make significant changes in his diet, particularly if you begin offering higher protein foods, repeat the testing procedure because he may produce more ammonia and need more frequent changes. A pH test is also needed so that you can ensure the pH of his old water and his new water are the same or nearly the same to avoid shocking him with a rapid change. Uncycled bowls and tanks should have all of the water changed, not only part of it. Gently remove the betta from the tank and into a holding container. Scoop him with a cup or use a soft brine shrimp net; open mesh nets can tear long, delicate fins. Scooping is preferred as frequent netting can damage the slime coat. Bettas--all bettas--are world class jumpers, so cover the cup or holding container securely. If he thrashes while he's in the container, wrap a towel or something around it so that he's in the dark; darkness will help keep him calm. To clean his tank, dump out all of the old water, rinse the tank and any decor in hot tap water (do not use detergents or cleansers) then refill with clean, dechlorinated water the same temperature and pH as his original tank water and put him back in his home.

Cycled tanks
Although aquaria as small as one gallon often come with some kind of filter, it is very difficult to maintain a stable cycle in such small amounts of water, so we suggest a minimum of three gallons for cycled tanks. For those new to aquarium keeping, five gallons or more is recommended because the larger the water volume, the more margin for error. Though they can be kept in larger tanks, bettas tend to be most comfortable in tanks of five to fifteen gallons because tanks in that size range do not require very powerful filters. Bettas are beautiful and graceful, but they are not strong swimmers and most males have long fins that get caught easily in current. If filtration is too strong, you will most likely find your betta huddled in a corner that he refuses to leave.

Bettas do not make the best choice for cycling new tanks. Although they are themselves often hardy enough to withstand the conditions as the biological filter becomes established, their fins usually are not and they will often end up with fin rot. A better, safer choice for betta tanks is fishless cycling, as detailed in our article, Cycling Safely: The Fishless Method. Another option is to use a cycling product from Marineland called Bio Spira; although most cycling products are essentially useless, Bio Spira is live nitrifying bacteria and performs as advertised.

Betta Tankmates:

Bettas are by nature solitary fish and do not require the company of other fish, but most will accept the presence of suitable tankmates. In a gallon tank, there is room for the betta and nothing else, but if your tank is five gallons or more and is cycled, there is room to add some small, interesting creatures or perhaps other small, peaceful fish. The best way to introduce a betta to other fish or invertebrates is to put the tankmates in first and the betta last. That way, he is less likely to perceive his tankmates as invaders to his established territory and more likely to accept them as simply part of the scenery in his new home. That said, some bettas are so fiercely territorial that they are not willing to share any of their space with another creature, and which type of betta you have you can't know until you've tried, so it's always wise to have a backup plan in place in the event that your betta turns out to be somewhat less than social. Below is a list of tankmates that may work with your betta.

• Otocinclus catfish
  
• Corydoras catfish
  
• Mollies
  
• Platies
  
• Small, peaceful tetras such as neons and glowlights
  
• Cherry barbs (no other barb species)
  
• Kuhli loaches
  
• African Dwarf Frogs (not African Clawed Frogs)
  
• Snails
  
• Ghost shrimp too large to fit in the betta's mouth

Avoid large or aggressive fish, fin nippers such as serpae tetras and tiger barbs, male fancy guppies that the betta may mistake for another male betta, and species closely related to bettas such as gouramis and paradise fish.

Two male bettas should never be kept together; they will fight until either one is so badly injured that he backs down or one is killed. Even if they seem like they are getting along at first, that could change at any moment, and with potentially disastrous results; bettas are not called Siamese fighting fish for no reason. Neither should a male and female betta be kept together; they may get along for a time, but ultimately, they are likely to fight. Female bettas can usually be kept together in groups of three or more, but they are territorial, and in cramped quarters, they can fight as viciously as the males. Three females in a heavily planted ten gallon tank will sometimes work, but chances will be better with tanks of twenty or more gallons and more female bettas. Never keep only two females together because with only two, there can be only one aggressor and one victim. With three or more, aggression is spread out.

Water and water quality maintenance:

Most tap water that is safe for human consumption is just fine for bettas too, but you will need to use a quality water conditioner. Even well water that is not treated with chlorine may contain heavy metals that are toxic to fish. We suggest Kordon NovAqua and AmQuel used together, or Seachem Prime. NovAqua removes free chlorine and the chlorine portion of chloramine usually found in municipal water as well as the toxic metals found in almost all water sources. AmQuel is also needed to neutralize ammonia in the water, both that from fish waste and that produced when NovAqua breaks the chloramine bond and removes the chlorine. Prime is an all-in-one alternative for complete water conditioning, but since its ammonia-binding effect is reported to be temporary and no ammonia test but Seachem's can give an accurate result, it may not be the best choice for uncycled tanks. In cycled tanks, the biofilter will remove the ammonia. NovAqua and AmQuel are suitable for either cycled or uncycled tanks, but you must use a salicylate ammonia test (two or three bottles of reagent, depending on brand) if you are using AmQuel. A Nessler (one bottle of reagent) test can give a false positive because it cannot tell the difference between toxic ammonia and the non-toxic compound to which AmQuel converts ammonia.

Water quality maintenance in betta tanks is the same as in any other tropical aquarium. For an explanation of the factors that affect water quality, see our article Maintaining Water Quality and Stability. Bettas may often be sold as "decorations" or even given away as party favors, but they are fish, and just like any other fish, they require a stable environment without temperature or pH fluctuations and they need regular water changes. An often-asked question is whether or not bettas require a heater, and unless the tank will be in a very warm room, they do. We consider an ideal temperature to be 78F (26C); however, bettas will be comfortable between 76F (24C) and 80F (27C) as long as the temperature is stable. Below 75F (23C) is stressful and the betta is likely to become lethargic and his color will appear dull or washed-out. Stressed fish are also more likely to become ill. In order to monitor the tank temperature, you will need a thermometer. Both adhesive thermometers that stick on the outside of the tank and suction cup thermometers that stick on the inside tank wall are inexpensive and either is fine.

Keeping bowls and small tanks warm can present a challenge because they are too small for an aquarium heater to be safely used. If this is the case for your betta tank, you may want to upgrade to a tank large enough for a heater, but if that is not possible, you should move the tank to a warmer spot. As a temporary solution, a reptile heating pad or even a household wet/dry heating pad could be used, but neither should be used unless there is someone at home because heating a betta bowl is not the intended use for either of these products and they are not designed to do so safely. Ultimately, the best solution is to upgrade the tank and use an aquarium heater, or find a warmer room.

Betta decor and "toys":

Part of the betta's charm is his individuality. Some are friendly and outgoing while others are more shy and retiring, but nearly all appreciate a little hiding spot or cave in the tank where they can have some privacy. Bettas also love to wriggle and glide though plants. It doesn't matter whether the plants are live or silk, but plastic plants should be avoided because they often have sharp edges that could snag and tear long, delicate fins. Some people are under the impression that tiny tanks are appropriate for bettas because "bettas don't like space", and in a way, that is true, but not in the way you may think. It is not that they don't appreciate room to move around--they do--it's that some are nervous in tanks with a lot of open space. All bettas will appreciate plants, but the more skittish ones will really appreciate plants, and lots of them!

If you do choose to use live plants, this can bring added benefits, especially in cycled tanks. Live plants are not only visually appealing; they also remove dissolved wastes and carbon dioxide. As well, they harbor nitrifying bacteria and oxygenate the water in a cycled environment. For those who are uncertain about adding live plants, starting with Proven Performers such as java moss and java fern is a great choice because they can thrive in little more than ambient light.

Aeration is not a necessity even in unfiltered tanks, but some bettas (especially younger ones) seem to enjoy swimming back and forth through the bubbles from an air stone, so you may choose to put one in the tank. Others appreciate as little water movement as possible, though, so if he avoids it, seems uncomfortable or it appears he's getting caught in the current, take it out. Make sure that even if you provide an air stone, you do not block your betta's access to the surface. There is some question as to whether or not bettas can actually "drown", and bettas in filtered, well-oxygenated tanks do tend to surface for air far less often than those in unfiltered tanks without aeration, but we suggest you err on the side of caution and don't block surface access.

Most people know that if you show a betta his own reflection in a mirror, he'll intensify his color, extend his fins and flare at it, believing it to be another male betta intruding upon his territory. There is absolutely no harm in letting your betta have a mirror to show off for a few minutes, but don't forget to remove it. Flaring is all in good fun, but it's stressful for a betta to always feel that his territory is threatened by an intruder, and also, he may "blow" (tear) his fins as a result of tension from holding them extended for too long.

Betta care misconceptions:

Just as bettas don't live in puddles, neither does your betta need salt in his water to "relieve stress" or to prevent fin rot, fungus, ich, velvet or anything else. Clean water at a comfortable temperature does an excellent job of keeping fish stress-free and an equally excellent job of preventing disease. You may also be told that the addition of preventative medications is necessary to keep your betta healthy, but it is not. Clean, dechlorinated water is the most powerful preventative "medication" of all.

Another common recommendation from pet stores is pH adjuster. Though it is true that wild bettas come from waters that are typically soft and acidic, that doesn't mean you need to adjust your pH to some magic number; as long as your water is between 6.5 and 8.2 and the pH is stable, it will be fine. If you've purchased your betta locally, he is most likely already adjusted to the pH of the local water supply and he will not appreciate the fluctuations that often accompany the use of pH adjusters. Another recommendation that you may have heard is that bettas should be kept in distilled water. Absolutely not true--distilled water lacks the dissolved solids and electrolytes necessary for long-term fish health.

Feeding your betta:

Bettas may be fussy eaters and often stubbornly refuse to try new foods, but once they figure out that you have food they like on the menu, they will do everything in their power to convince you that they're starving. Don't believe it for a minute and don't give in to the charming little wiggly dances or hopeful glances at the surface of the water. A betta's stomach is approximately the size of one of his eyes, and he should have no more food in one day than would fit in that space. Overfeeding is not healthy for any fish, and in the case of bettas, often leads to problems with bloating, constipation and swim bladder disorder. It also leads to additional pollutants in the water, either in the form of extra fish waste, or in decomposing food particles at the bottom of the tank.

Many people fast their bettas once a week, and some also offer a few pieces of thawed frozen green pea (with the skin removed) to help clear out the intestine. Fasting your betta may feel like you're being mean, and a betta will beg and wiggle to generally add to your feelings of guilt, but stay strong--fasting won't hurt the fish at all and many fishkeepers consider it beneficial. A wild betta must hunt to find food; your betta has nothing to do but wait until you bring food to him. Also, fish are poikilothermic (body temperature largely dependent upon environment) and do not metabolize food at the same rate as homeotherms (body temperature maintained by the animal); they would need less food than a comparably sized homeotherm.

Bettas are notorious for spitting out food, especially unfamiliar foods. Sometimes that means nothing more than, "This is new and I'm not sure I like it", but other times it means, "Yuck". Most bettas place flake foods into the category of "yuck", but some will eat them. Pelleted foods formulated for bettas or small tropical fish and freeze dried foods such as blood worms, brine shrimp and daphnia will usually be accepted, but occasionally, you will encounter a betta that has trouble with bloating and constipation when fed dry foods. He should be offered frozen or live foods instead. Some pelleted and freeze dried foods swell considerably when they get wet, and it wise to pre-soak those before offering them, both to help prevent blockages in the intestine and so you can easily see just how much food the betta is getting and avoid overfeeding.

If your betta could talk, he'd probably tell you that although dry foods are okay, he'd really prefer foods that more closely resemble his natural diet, and we often recommend frozen foods as a safe, convenient way to offer just that. Rare is the betta that doesn't love frozen blood worms, and you may also offer brine shrimp, glassworms (white mosquito larvae), black mosquito larvae, mysis shrimp, plankton, chopped krill, and daphnia. Bettas do like tubifex worms, but do be careful to choose only frozen tubifex that is guaranteed free of harmful bacteria and parasites. Beef heart is low in fat, but bettas are not designed to digest the fat of warm-blooded animals, so foods such as this should be offered as an occasional treat, not a staple.

Really love your betta and want to spoil him rotten? Why not try offering some live foods? Blackworms, whiteworms, grindal worms, daphnia and flightless fruit flies are all enthusiastically accepted by bettas, and you get the added bonus of seeing your pretty little finned friend as the hunter he really is! If you do not have a trusted local source where you can buy live foods, you can easily culture some yourself. Check out our live food culturing articles; Fruit Fly Cultures, Grindal Worm Cultures, Whiteworm Cultures: The No Fuss Harvest Method, Culturing Daphnia in Eight Easy Steps (green water method) and Daphnia Cultures the Easy Way (yeast infusion method). If you have any questions or concerns about the safety of live foods, come on over to our Live Food forum and we'll be happy to help.

Whether they are pet store veiltails or fancy-finned breeder fish, bettas are friendly, fun little wet pets that can wiggle dance their way into nearly anyone's heart. We hope this article has been helpful and we'd love to have you join the friendly folks in our Bettas forum.

Though it usually proves difficult to not spoil our little betta friends with more than they really need, below is a list of the minimum supplies you will need to keep a betta in an uncycled bowl or tank.

"Bare bones" betta shopping list:

• One gallon or larger tank or bowl with cover
  
• Thermometer
  
• NovAqua
  
• AmQuel
  
• A variety of appropriate betta foods
  
• Salicylate ammonia test kit
  
• pH Test kit
  
• Resin or ceramic cave (or even a new ceramic coffee mug or glass candle holder that can be laid on its side in the tank)
  
• Silk or live plants

[AutumnV]

What a great article Giraffe!! I hadn't seen it before today. Shame on me! This is everything anyone needs to know to keep a betta (or bettas in most cases) happy and healthy. You did a fantastic job!

Kathleen